Vitamin C and its derivatives in skincare

Vitamin C is one of the most appreciated active ingredients in skincare. Also known for its antioxidant and brightening action, it helps the skin defend itself from environmental stress and contributes to making it more radiant and even-toned. Due to these characteristics, it is often present in various cosmetic products, from face creams to eye contours, up to sunscreens and body treatments. However, when it comes to cosmetics with Vitamin C, it is important to know that this molecule can come in different forms. In modern dermo-cosmetics, in fact, Vitamin C derivatives are often used, chosen to ensure greater stability, as well as easier integration into cosmetic formulations.

Why Vitamin C is important for the skin

Vitamin C performs several useful functions for skin health. Among its main benefits are:

• helps counteract oxidative stress, i.e., damage caused by factors such as pollution and UV rays
  

• helps keep the skin more radiant and even-toned
  

For this reason, it is considered one of the most interesting active ingredients in a daily skincare routine.

Pure Vitamin C and derivatives: what is the difference?

Vitamin C can be used in cosmetics in two main ways: in pure form or as derivatives. L-Ascorbic Acid is the biologically active form of Vitamin C. It is very effective, but also quite delicate: it can easily degrade when it comes into contact with air or light and can be more difficult to stabilize in cosmetic formulations. For this reason, Vitamin C derivatives, i.e., molecules of Vitamin C modified to be more advantageous from a formulation perspective, are often used in dermo-cosmetics, improving their stability, tolerability, and ease of use in dermo-cosmetic products. Derivatives are divided into:

• water-soluble, which integrate better into the aqueous part of emulsions, such as serums, lotions, and gels; they allow for fresh and light textures. Water-soluble derivatives include Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP), and Ascorbyl Glucoside.
• oil-soluble, which are more easily incorporated into the oily component of emulsions and, generally, into richer formulas such as face creams, balms, and nourishing treatments; in these products, they also help make the texture more comfortable on the skin. These include Ascorbyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.

These forms allow Vitamin C to be integrated into cosmetic products while maintaining good stability and greater tolerability, even for the most sensitive skin.

Why are derivatives often chosen in dermo-cosmetics?

The use of Vitamin C derivatives in dermo-cosmetic products allows for a balance between efficacy and formula stability. Compared to pure Vitamin C, derivatives:

• are generally more stable over time
• are more resistant to light and oxygen
• are easier to incorporate into different cosmetic textures

This allows for the creation of products that aim to offer the benefits associated with Vitamin C but are more suitable for daily use.

Integrating Vitamin C into your daily skincare routine

Including products with Vitamin C in your routine can be a useful way to support your skin over time, especially when it is exposed to environmental factors such as sun, smog, or stress.

Thanks to its antioxidant and brightening action, Vitamin C is a versatile ingredient that can be used in various skincare routine products, helping to keep the skin more radiant and even-toned.