Skincare is constantly evolving in its emotional and experiential paradigms. A mix where sensoriality, science and dermatology merge with the use of innovative ingredients and formulation synergies. The goal is always to improve performance, but above all to stimulate the senses and promote increasingly immersive products to stimulate the cognitive, affective and conative aspects evoked by the beauty routine. The cognitive aspect aims to retain a memory of the experience, the affective aspect allows you to reflect an accurate and positive image of it, and the conative aspect aims to make you want to possess and continue to experience that emotion over time. This is how immersive, functional and sensorial skincare is creating a new formulation language.
FUNCTIONAL SKINCARE
Functional dermocosmetics are formulated to offer specific and targeted results. This is a very useful communication classification to help frame the positioning and advice of the pharmacist. An example are the formulation synergies with controlled release technologies such as fospidina. It is a liposomal anti-aging regenerating active ingredient based on phospholipids (main constituents of cell membranes) and glucosamine (precursor of hyaluronic acid) known to convey functional molecules more effectively and for a longer period through the skin layers or systemically. Thanks to its structure similar to cell membranes, fospidina, conveyed with serums And creams , blends with them and releases glucosamine directly into the cells to form new hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin. (Source: B. Mandalari and D. Tedeschi, Journal of Plastic Dermatology joined with Update in Plastic Surgery, vol 12, 2, 2016 Phospholipids, glucosamine, phytoestrogens and skin regeneration)
The phospholipids are arranged in a double layer to form a hollow sphere (liposome) within which the glucosamine molecules are positioned. [figure 1] . The liposome penetrates into the deeper layers [figure 2] transporting glucosamine, which will promote the production of new hyaluronic acid and physiological cell regeneration. The liposome, which is made up of phospholipids like cell membranes, easily fuses with the cell membrane. Following the fusion, a channel is created through which the glucosamine passes [figure 3] and the other active ingredients characteristic of each dermocosmetic formulation (face creams, eye and lip contour creams, body creams, etc.).
CLEANICAL BEAUTY & EPIGENETICS
Being a functional cosmetic also means combining a "clean" formula with a scientific and dermatological approach to increase its effectiveness. This is how the trend of cleanical beauty (from clean + clinical), that is, a high-performance and innovative, exclusive and prestigious cosmetics that does not forget the importance of using biotechnological raw materials, with almost all ingredients of natural origin and olfactory notes without allergens (CLEAN) and whose effectiveness is proven by clinical skin tests (CLINICAL), as well as by sensorial self-assessment tests. A mix where sensoriality, science and dermatology blend together synergistically to increase the performance and functionality of the products, also in an epigenetic key. Yes, because epigenetics studies how exposure to environmental factors can modify the expression of genes without changing the DNA sequence. So green light to formulas enriched with anti-pollution and anti-blue light filters, both with strong antioxidant activities, useful for skin exposed to pollutants such as smog or radiation emitted by smartphone, tablet and computer screens.
SENSORY SKINCARE
Skin cells, like all cells in our body, communicate with each other to ensure proper functionality. Glycobiology studies glycans, a family that includes glucosamine in fospidine: according to a presentation at the American Academy of Dermatology, glycans allow cells to identify each other and communicate with each other.
Sensation is an unconscious process that aims to organize the multiplicity of information that reaches the brain through skin receptors with material and transformative textures. Let's think for example of thixotropic formulations, cooling or heating agents, polymers, rubbers and gelling agents.
SMELL FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
The most innovative formulas of sensorial cosmetics also develop olfactory pyramids without allergens , making the formula optimal from a functional and emotional point of view. In fact, the sense of smell is connected to the limbic system and in particular to the hippocampus, or the area of memories and memory, which even the application of a cosmetic is able to stimulate. Here, dermatological expertise merges with unforgettable textures aimed at holistic well-being where the blend of effectiveness and sensoriality promotes compliance with the treatment over time, one of the keys to success for having tangible cosmetic results.