We are sometimes asked: "Are Skinius products cosmeceuticals?". In newspapers, online and on social networks, in fact, this word (along with other expressions such as "natural cosmetics" and "organic formulations") is increasingly associated with formulations that would seem to guarantee an efficacy almost equal to a drug. But do cosmeceuticals really exist or are they just another advertising gimmick? We asked the experts for their opinion and consulted the European legislation that regulates cosmetics to answer this question.
What does cosmeceuticals mean?
"Cosmeceutical" is a word coined in the late 1980s by Albert Kligman, an American dermatologist who defines cosmeceutical as a product that is halfway between a cosmetic and a drug. This is how the trend of cosmeceuticals used by some companies with the intent of strengthening the authority and effectiveness of their product formulations was born. All this would be possible in the United States, where there are different regulations regarding dermocosmetics and drugs, but in Europe there is no regulation that speaks of cosmeceuticals. An example is that of sunscreens, which in the United States are classified as drugs while in Europe as cosmetics; but anti-aging formulations do not fall into this category. It is in this context that the advertising strategies of some companies fit.
Do cosmeceuticals work differently or better than regular cosmetics?
Cosmeceuticals presume to define themselves as more effective cosmetics than the average on the market because they would provide performance and results on par with pharmacological formulations. We asked Dr. Massimo Perrone, chemist-cosmetologist and professor at the Vita-Salute University of San Raffaele, to clarify the European legislation regarding cosmeceuticals:
From a legislative point of view, the category of cosmeceuticals does not exist: there is the cosmetic and there is the drug. The term cosmeceutical is used for marketing and communication reasons , to indicate a cosmetic product that, according to the manufacturing company, would have a strong cosmetic function in maintaining the skin in good condition.
In fact, the European Regulation on Cosmetic Products ( EC Regulation 1223/09 ) establishes very clearly, in art. 2, paragraph a), the definition of cosmetic product as:
any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external surfaces of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips, external genital organs) or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the mouth with the aim exclusively or mainly of cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.
It is clear that the term “cosmeceuticals” therefore has only an advertising and marketing position and does not in any way represent a scientifically recognized class of topical products.
What are the recognized differences between drugs and cosmeceuticals?
In the United States, for example, sunscreens or skin-lightening creams are defined as drugs, while European regulations classify these formulations as cosmetics. This is why in many cases the line between a drug and a cosmetic can be thin, and this is where the strategy of some brands comes in, boasting better cosmeceuticals, formulated with exclusive ingredients.
In reality, in Europe there is a clear difference that separates the active ingredients present in drugs from those in cosmetics. Therefore, the choice of raw materials cannot boast any claim of exclusivity for products defined as cosmeceuticals. The rules that govern the choice of ingredients and their classification, in the annexes of the aforementioned Cosmetic Regulation, are absolutely the same for every type of cosmetic, regardless of how it is defined from a marketing point of view. It is therefore necessary to pay attention to claims of this type as they do not offer, in scientific reality, any added value compared to all other cosmetic products.
Skinius' transparent approach
Skinius ' philosophy, inspired by the founder and biologist Dr. Mariagrazia Boniardi , has always been to communicate transparently with the customer, transmitting her strong scientific preparation and her sensitivity of soul (and skin!). In fact, we know that skin aging begins around the age of 25 and that it cannot be stopped. However, it can be prevented and regenerated by listening to the skin and its dermatological needs based on the time of year and life. The Fospidina complex is an Italian innovation that characterizes the entire Skinius dermocosmetic line to help the skin regenerate, remaining more elastic and luminous. In support, a nutraceutical system of supplements has been created to also act on a systemic level, helping to prevent the most common skin blemishes that can appear with age.