Sometimes we are asked: "Are Skinius products cosmeceuticals?". On newspaper pages, online, and on social media, this word (along with other expressions like "natural cosmetics" and "organic formulations") is increasingly associated with formulations that seem to guarantee efficacy almost on par with a drug. But does cosmeceutical truly exist, or is it just another advertising gimmick? We asked the opinion of experts and consulted European regulations governing cosmetics to answer this question.
What does cosmeceutical mean?
"Cosmeceutical" is a word coined in the late 1980s by Albert Kligman, an American dermatologist who defined a cosmeceutical as a product that falls halfway between a cosmetic and a drug. This gave rise to the cosmeceutical trend used by some companies with the intention of strengthening the authority and efficacy of their product formulations. This would be possible in the United States, where different regulations apply to dermocosmetics and drugs, but in Europe there is no regulation that refers to cosmeceuticals. An example is sunscreens, which are classified as drugs in the United States but as cosmetics in Europe; however, anti-aging formulations do not fall into this category. It is in this context that some companies' advertising strategies are introduced.
Do cosmeceuticals work differently or better than regular cosmetics?
Cosmeceuticals claim to be more effective cosmetics than the average on the market because they supposedly deliver performance and results on par with pharmacological formulations. We asked Dr. Massimo Perrone, a cosmetic chemist and professor at Vita-Salute San Raffaele University, to clarify the European legislation regarding cosmeceuticals:
From a legislative point of view, the category of cosmeceuticals does not exist: there are cosmetics and there are drugs. The term cosmeceutical is used for marketing and communication purposes, to indicate a cosmetic product which, according to the manufacturing company, would possess a marked cosmetic functionality in maintaining the skin in good condition.
In fact, the European Cosmetic Products Regulation (Reg CE 1223/09) clearly defines a cosmetic product in Article 2, paragraph a), as:
any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.
It is clear that the term "cosmeceuticals" therefore has only an advertising and marketing purpose and in no way represents a scientifically recognized class of topical products.
What are the recognized differences between drugs and cosmeceuticals?
In the United States, for example, sunscreens or skin-lightening creams are defined as drugs, while European regulations classify these formulations as cosmetics. This is why in many cases the line separating a drug from a cosmetic can be thin, and this is where the strategy of some brands that boast better cosmeceuticals, formulated with exclusive ingredients, comes into play.
In reality, in Europe there is a clear difference between the active ingredients present in drugs and those in cosmetics. Therefore, the choice of raw materials cannot claim any exclusivity for products defined as cosmeceuticals. The rules governing the selection of ingredients and their classification, in the annexes of the aforementioned Cosmetic Regulation, are absolutely the same for every type of cosmetic, regardless of how it is defined from a marketing perspective. Therefore, attention must be paid to such claims as they do not offer, in scientific reality, any added value compared to all other cosmetic products.
Skinius' transparent approach
The philosophy of Skinius, inspired by its founder and biologist Dr. Mariagrazia Boniardi, has always been to communicate transparently with customers, conveying her strong scientific expertise and her sensitivity (and skin sensitivity!). We know that skin aging begins around 25 years of age and that it cannot be stopped. However, it can be prevented and regenerated by listening to the skin and its dermatological needs according to the time of year and life stage. The Fospidina complex is an Italian innovation that characterizes the entire Skinius dermo-cosmetic line to help the skin regenerate, keeping it more elastic and radiant. To support this, a system of supplements has been created to act systemically, helping to prevent the most common skin imperfections that can appear with age.