We often hear, often in a somewhat confused way, about natural cosmetics , with plant ingredients in certain percentages. Yes, because when you come into contact with a cosmetic product, you often think that the presence of natural ingredients is synonymous with safety and reliability. On the contrary, the term " synthetic " which, erroneously, is contrasted with "natural", would have a less positive connotation. In reality, this simplification is incorrect, generic and misleading, since there are so many chemical reactions in which the molecules participate that only some of them can really be defined as "synthetic". In this regard, the in-depth study by Dr. Vincenzo Rialdi published on Rizzoli Education at this link is interesting.
Well, it should be clarified that the Guidelines on the adjectives of cosmetic products (also known as “claims”), governed by the European Regulation 655/2013 CE , are not very clear regarding “ natural ” (and other similar adjectives such as “ organic ” or generally “ green ” which are not regulated by specific specifications).
What can be defined as natural cosmetics?
In strictly chemical terms, there could not be a 100% natural product nor a 100% synthetic product. A 100% natural face cream does not exist because, necessarily, even natural extracts must go through chemical refining phases.
Let's take a practical example. The "famous" LES (or SLES), which chemically is sodium lauryl ether sulfate , derives from coconut and palm kernel oils (i.e. not from the palm but from its seeds) and only in two subsequent chemical treatments, during which a carcinogenic compound could form, is it transformed into the final molecule.
So we can say that LES is of “ natural origin ” (coconut and palm kernel oils) without fear of being contradicted, still referring to the same molecule that during its manufacturing process could have become potentially harmful to humans. Similarly, many extracts declared “natural” are chemically treated in the “extraction” processes (for example with solvents such as glycols). So are they also of “natural origin”? Can a natural product that has been chemically extracted from a plant still be defined as natural?
The right question might be: when can a product truly be classified as natural ?
The answer, in strictly chemical terms, would probably always be because even oil is a totally natural product, having been formed by the decomposition of marine microorganisms in the absence of oxygen. But this is obviously not acceptable in the common experience of the consumer and in media communication.
Is "natural" always synonymous with "good"?
On the contrary, a completely and truly natural face cream without "parabens, nickel, alcohol, perfume... and so on and so forth" would have colonies of bacteria and fungi inside it after a few minutes of opening that we would knowingly spread on our face or body. If you think carefully, what can be classified as "non-chemical" in nature? Even water itself is chemical, in apples there are some small percentages of formaldehyde and yet "an apple a day keeps the doctor away". Have we perhaps believed a false myth for years?
The other aspect to focus on is: are “natural” molecules always good? Here too we can give an example. For many years now, European legislation such as the “Cosmetics Regulation” ( Regulation 1223/2009 CE ) has required the declaration on the label of the presence of one of the so-called allergens , normally contained in the fragrances used in the product, referring to a table, always updated, of substances recognized by the SCCS (European Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) with a high allergic potential for humans. Well, did you know that all allergens are natural molecules?
In order to reduce the risk of allergies, all fragrance and perfume manufacturers have therefore turned towards synthetic (and therefore non-natural) molecules with a very low allergic and toxicological impact on humans, and which are also very eco-sustainable.
When is a cosmetic product not harmful to health?
On this point (which is the really important one) , European legislation has long required a mandatory “Human Health Safety Assessment” before a product is placed on the market.
The aforementioned Cosmetics Regulation since 2013 requires cosmetics manufacturers to take a further step, namely the drafting of the so-called "Safety Report" which, in addition to the guarantees of toxicological analysis of all raw materials as previously required, subordinates the placing of the product on the market to the actual calculation of a Safety Factor ( the "MoS", Margin of Safety ), which obviously depends on the safety data of all ingredients, and which only if it is within wide guarantee margins allows the placing of the product on the market.
Beyond unpredictable frauds that have the connotation of malice, a cosmetic product to be placed on the market must be safe for the consumer, always, without ifs and buts .
Finally, always for the peace of mind of the consumer, it is worth underlining that with the entry into force of the new Cosmetics Regulation, greater attention has been requested throughout the European territory by the Control Authority (ASL and NAS in our country) and sanctions have been rightly increased (see in this regard Legislative Decree 4.12.2015, n. 204) which, in cases of crimes against consumer safety, reach fines of €100,000 and imprisonment of up to 5 years.
The dermatologist's opinion
Also expressing her doubts about the natural cosmetics trend that is becoming popular in the UK is the doctor and dermatologist Anjali Mahto , one of the major exponents of dermatology and skincare in the United Kingdom, who has helped millions of English teenagers defeat acne and live with this blemish in the name of a new philosophy called "skin positivity". In short, the expert authoritative voice of Doctor Mahto, in her latest publication The Skincare Bible , instructs her readers not to blindly believe that a dermo-cosmetic product must be natural or "free of" something to be good. While on the one hand the long chemical-scientific names present on the INCI of skincare products can be scary, it is important to know that any type of cosmetic formulation, before being put on sale, passes various European safety tests that guarantee the protection of the health of the end consumer.
The point of view of the Skinius research team
So how do you choose the right dermocosmetics for your skin? Our advice is to try and try again to find the formulation that suits your skin. Don't be prejudiced because the cosmetic performance of a product is subjective: you can understand if your skin is happy with it only after using it, at different times of the year and in life. It may happen that a friend loves the texture of a product that, however, does not provide the same performance when in contact with your skin.
With the DERMAGENIA protocol, launched in 2022, SKINIUS was defined by Vanity Fair as the first 100% made in Italy skincare company to pave the way for CLEANICAL BEAUTY, the new skincare trend born from the fusion of a CLEAN + CLINICAL approach. A method in which the formulas, guided by biotechnology, contain almost all ingredients of natural origin (CLEAN) and whose effectiveness is proven by clinical tests (CLINICAL). A mix where sensoriality, science and dermatology blend together synergistically to increase the performance of the products.
Not only that, DERMAGENIA also launches a new EMOTIONAL SKINCARE where the high dermatological expertise of SKINIUS blends with unforgettable sensorial textures aimed at holistic well-being. In fact, for each product an allergen-free olfactory pyramid has been studied, making the protocol synergistic from a functional and sensorial point of view, respecting sensitive skin. The sense of smell is connected to the limbic system and in particular with the hippocampus, or the area of memories and memory, which even the application of a cosmetic is able to stimulate.
What drives us is the desire to create cosmetic formulations that are widely tolerated, even by the most sensitive and intolerant skin. Yes, because all the products are dermatologically tested on sensitive skin and validated to guarantee the highest levels of effectiveness. Learn to listen to your skin: you will make the right choice.
On the ABC Cosmetici website you can find a lot of agnostic and impartial information, guaranteed by the scientific and regulatory professionalism of the National Association of Cosmetic Companies.