Natural cosmetics: let's clarify

We often hear, often in a somewhat confused way, about natural cosmetics, with plant-based ingredients in certain percentages. Yes, because when one comes into contact with a cosmetic product, it is often thought that the presence of natural ingredients is inherently synonymous with safety and reliability. Conversely, the term "synthetic," which is mistakenly contrasted with "natural," would have a less positive connotation. In reality, this simplification is incorrect, generic, and misleading, as the chemical reactions in which molecules participate are so numerous that only some of them can truly be defined as not "synthetic." In this regard, the in-depth analysis by Dr. Vincenzo Rialdi published on Rizzoli Education at this link is interesting.

It should be clarified that the Guidelines on the descriptive terms of cosmetic products (also known as "claims"), regulated by European Regulation 655/2013 CE, are not very clear regarding "natural" (and other similar adjectives such as "organic" or generally "green" which are not regulated by specific standards).

What can be defined as natural cosmetics?

In strictly chemical terms, a 100% natural product nor a 100% synthetic product could exist. A 100% natural face cream does not exist because, necessarily, even natural extracts must go through chemical refining stages.

Let's take a practical example. The "famous" LES (or SLES), which chemically is sodium lauryl ether sulfate, is derived from coconut and palm kernel oils (i.e., not from the palm tree but from its seeds) and only in two subsequent chemical treatments, during which a carcinogenic compound could form, does it transform into the final molecule.

So we can say that LES is "naturally derived" (coconut and palm kernel oils) without fear of being contradicted, referring always to the same molecule that during its processing could have become potentially harmful to humans. In the same way, many "natural" extracts are chemically treated in "extraction" processes (for example, with solvents like glycols). So, are they also "naturally derived"? Can a natural product that has been chemically extracted from a plant still be called natural?

The right question might be: when can a product be truly classified as natural?

The answer, in strictly chemical terms, would probably be always, as even petroleum is a totally natural product, having formed from the decomposition of marine microorganisms in the absence of oxygen. But this is obviously not acceptable in the common experience of consumers and in media communication.

Is "natural" always synonymous with "good"?

On the contrary, a completely and truly natural and "preservative-free" face cream (since all effective preservatives are synthetic) would, within minutes of opening, contain colonies of bacteria and fungi that we would knowingly spread on our face and body. If you think carefully, what can be classified as "non-chemical" in nature? Even water itself is chemical, an apple contains small percentages of formaldehyde, yet "an apple a day keeps the doctor away." Have we perhaps believed a false myth for years?

The other aspect to dwell on is: are "natural" molecules always good? Here too we can give an example. For many years now, European legislation such as the "Cosmetics Regulation" (Reg 1223/2009 CE) has required the declaration on the label of the presence of one of the so-called allergens, normally contained in the fragrances used in the product, referring to an always updated table of substances recognized by the SCCS (European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) with a high allergic potential for humans. Well, did you know that almost all allergens are natural molecules?

In order to reduce the risk of allergy, all fragrance and perfume manufacturers have therefore moved towards synthetic molecules (and therefore not natural) with a very low allergic and toxicological impact for humans, and also very eco-sustainable.

When is a cosmetic product not harmful to health?

Regarding this point (which is the truly important one), for some time now, European regulations have mandated a "Safety Assessment for Human Health" before the product is placed on the market.

The aforementioned Cosmetics Regulation has, since 2013, required cosmetic manufacturers to take an additional step, namely the preparation of the so-called "Safety Report" which, in addition to guaranteeing the toxicological analysis of all raw materials as previously required, subordinates the placing of the product on the market to the actual calculation of a Safety Factor (the "MoS," Margin of Safety), which obviously depends on the safety data of all ingredients, and which only if it falls within broad guarantee margins allows the product to be placed on the market.

Beyond unforeseeable frauds that have the characteristic of malice, a cosmetic product, to be placed on the market, must always be safe for the consumer, without ifs, ands, or buts.

Finally, for the consumer's peace of mind, it is important to emphasize that with the entry into force of the new Cosmetics Regulation, greater attention has been required from the Control Authorities throughout Europe (ASL and NAS in our country) and penalties have been rightly tightened (see Legislative Decree 4.12.2015, n. 204 in this regard) which, in cases of offenses against consumer safety, can lead to pecuniary penalties of €100,000 and imprisonment for up to 5 years.

The dermatologist's opinion

Dr. and dermatologist Anjali Mahto, one of the leading exponents in dermatology and skincare in the United Kingdom, who has helped millions of British teenagers overcome acne and live with this blemish under a new philosophy called "skin positivity," also expresses her doubts regarding the trend of natural cosmetics that is gaining popularity in the UK. In short, Dr. Mahto's expert authoritative voice, in her latest publication The Skincare Bible, instructs her readers not to blindly believe that a dermocosmetic must be natural or "free of" something to be good. While the long chemical-scientific names present on the INCI of skincare products can be frightening, it is important to know that any type of cosmetic formulation, before being put on sale, undergoes various European safety tests that guarantee the protection of the final consumer's health.

The Skinius research team's point of view

So how do you choose the right dermocosmetics for your skin? Our advice is to try and try again to find the right formulation for your skin. Don't be prejudiced because the cosmetic performance of a product is subjective: you can only tell if your skin likes it after using it, at different times of the year and in life. It may happen that a friend loves the texture of a product, but when it comes into contact with your skin, it doesn't deliver the same performance.

With the DERMAGENIA line, launched in 2022, SKINIUS was defined by Vanity Fair as the first Made in Italy skincare company to pave the way for CLEANICAL BEAUTY, the new skincare trend born from the fusion of a CLEAN + CLINICAL approach. A method in which formulas, guided by biotechnology, contain almost all ingredients of natural origin (CLEAN) and whose effectiveness is proven by clinical tests (CLINICAL). A mix where sensoriality, science, and dermatology merge synergistically to increase product performance.

Not only that, DERMAGENIA also launches a new EMOTIONAL SKINCARE where SKINIUS's high dermatological expertise merges with unforgettable sensory textures aimed at holistic well-being. In fact, for each product, an olfactory pyramid has been studied that is well tolerated even by sensitive skin, making the protocol synergistic from a functional and sensory point of view, respecting sensitive skin. The sense of smell is connected to the limbic system and in particular to the hippocampus, which is the area of memories, and even the application of a cosmetic can stimulate it.

What guides us is the desire to create cosmetic formulations that are widely tolerated, even by the most sensitive and intolerant skin. Yes, because all products are dermatologically tested on sensitive skin and validated to ensure the highest levels of efficacy. Learn to listen to your skin: you will make the right choice.

On the website ABC Cosmetici you can find a lot of agnostic and impartial information, guaranteed by the scientific and regulatory professionalism of the National Association of Cosmetic Companies.